“Each creation is never merely an ornament but a message, a piece of my inner world that comes alive and interacts with others”: these are the words of Susanna Testa, a young creative and founder of Pannalù, a world of jewels that tell stories of emotions, fragility, and desires.
How did your passion for jewelry come about?
My passion for jewelry wasn’t love at first sight but the result of a weave of encounters, curiosity, and reflections that led me to discover the potential of this art form. As a child, I spent hours drawing, immersing myself in imaginary worlds filled with soft shapes and fantastic characters. As I grew up, illustration remained an essential means of expression for me, a refuge where I could translate emotions difficult to express in words. When I started studying Fashion Design at Politecnico di Milano, I envisioned a future in clothing. However, through significant encounters and personal growth, I discovered jewelry design.
This realm revealed a new way to think about the relationship between form and body. Unlike clothing, which interacts with the body extensively and visibly, jewelry creates a more intimate, focused bond. It’s not just an accessory but an emotional and identity-rich extension of the wearer. What captivated me was the ability to bring my ideas to life in three dimensions. Transforming my drawings into tangible objects, designed to be lived with and worn, allowed me to merge my love for illustration with a new understanding of materiality. Jewelry became a medium to tell stories, turning fragility and emotions into meaningful forms. Each creation is never merely an ornament but a message, a piece of my inner world that comes alive and interacts with others.
My passion for jewelry stems from this alchemy: the ability to transform the intangible, such as an idea or emotion, into a concrete object that fosters connections. It is a passion fueled by research, my teaching work at the university, travels, dialogues with people I admire and share values with, and the new stories that continuously shape and give meaning to my projects.
When was your brand founded, and why did you decide to embark on this adventure?
Pannalù officially came to life in December 2022, but the idea had been forming for a long time, almost without me realizing it. During moments of waiting, I would sketch what later became prototypes for my first collection: funny, imperfect little creatures, free from any constraints or expectations. These playful sketches already embodied the essence of Pannalù.
The decisive push came during the lockdown. Like many others, I felt the need to refocus my priorities. I realized that this project, which had until then existed only in my mind, was something I wanted to bring to life. I wanted to create a space that could be both a refuge and a source of freedom, one that highlighted fragility.
I started Pannalù to give form to an imagination that could no longer remain confined to drawings but needed to transform into tangible objects capable of telling stories and connecting with those who choose them. Pannalù was born from the intersection of my need to express myself and my desire to create something authentic, something that resonates with those who see beauty in fragility and imperfection and wish to embrace and celebrate it.
What educational path did you follow to develop the skills necessary for your work?
My educational journey was one of detours and discoveries, a blend of experiences that helped me build a well-rounded view of design. I started with a brief foray into language studies but quickly realized it wasn’t my path. I found my way at Politecnico di Milano, in the Fashion Design program, where I discovered the potential of jewelry design, not just as an aesthetic object but as a medium to tell stories, express identity, and create connections.
After graduating, I pursued a PhD in Design, focusing on innovation in accessories. Simultaneously, I had opportunities to work on academic projects and collaborate with companies, diving into diverse contexts such as curating exhibitions and designing products. These experiences allowed me to explore both theoretical research and practical application, broadening my perspective on design.
This path taught me to navigate different scales and contexts, from technical product details to crafting a broader narrative. Pannalù reflects this fusion of creative skills and theoretical research combined with a deeply personal vision.
What is the mission and core values of your brand?
Pannalù’s mission is to tell stories through objects that do more than adorn; they establish an intimate dialogue with the wearer. Each piece is conceived as a talisman, a tangible sign that accompanies and narrates, capable of embracing fragility, emotions, and desires while intertwining with everyday life.
It’s not about decoration but a design gesture that restores value to what is often considered fragile or marginal.
The brand’s values are rooted in authenticity and inclusivity. Pannalù celebrates Italian craftsmanship with a mindful and attentive production process, creating small series to respect the value of time and resources. Central to the brand is the desire to build a welcoming narrative where delicacy is never synonymous with weakness but a quiet strength capable of leaving a mark without shouting.
What have been the biggest challenges for your brand?
Pannalù has faced numerous challenges, each contributing to the brand’s current identity. One of the first difficulties was finding a place in the jewelry sector, which often demands a solidity and credibility difficult for an emerging small brand to achieve. Production was particularly challenging: working with Italian artisans while maintaining high quality and staying true to my creative vision required dealing with long timelines and the need to convey the uniqueness of my project to those producing it and finding someone who genuinely believed in it.
On a personal level, the biggest challenge has been learning to coexist with perfectionism—the need to have everything under control, which can stifle the creative process.
Then there’s the challenge of exposure. Pannalù is an intensely personal project, and putting something so intimate into the public eye has been, and still is, an act of vulnerability. But I’ve discovered that opening up is necessary and positive, enabling authentic connections with others.
What advice would you give a young person who wants to pursue this path?
I’d say, first and foremost, believe deeply in your project. This trust is not just the starting point but the engine that allows you to face challenges and moments of doubt. It’s crucial to understand why you’re building something and hold onto that motivation when the journey gets uncertain.
Another important aspect is surrounding yourself with the right people. Whether collaborators, friends, or family, having someone who understands and supports your vision makes a huge difference. In my case, ongoing discussions with people who share my sensitivity have been essential for questioning, refining, and advancing my ideas.
Also, don’t fear change. The world evolves quickly, and staying curious and open to what’s happening around you is a valuable resource. Every experience, even those seemingly unrelated to your path, can provide inspiration to improve or reinvent your work.
Finally, accept that mistakes are part of the process. Not everything will go as planned, and that’s not failure. Viewing setbacks as opportunities can turn challenges into turning points.
What do you dream of for the future?
I dream of Pannalù growing as a creative universe, embracing new projects and expanding its expressive possibilities while staying true to its message of delicacy and inclusivity. I’d like to explore other categories of accessories, pushing beyond jewelry to develop a language that evolves without losing coherence with its initial vision.
I imagine collections that build on previous ones but also introduce elements of disruption and novelty. I place great importance on composability and modularity in my work—I like to think of each creation as capable of intertwining with others, creating unexpected and personal combinations that grow with those who choose them.
My dream is for Pannalù to be perceived as an open universe, one that welcomes ideas, stories, and fragilities, transforming them into meaningful objects that find their place in people’s lives while maintaining a balance between intimacy and sharing.