12 Jul Schiaparelli Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2022-2023
Schiaparelli Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2022-2023
A heart that beats and burns intensely. A vivid and bright red. The wonder and mystery of life. The iconic black velvet choker with red lacquered anatomic heart is the symbol of the Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2022-2023 Born Again collection by Schiaparelli. And it is precisely through this so meaningful jewel that we want to tell the essence of the collection.
Just as the liveliness released by the swarovski that illuminate the heart is apparently in contrast with the austerity of the black velvet of the choker, the entire collection combines a solemn and majestic sobriety, which seems to want to respect and give dignity to the pain of a difficult historical period, and an explosion of exuberance and creativity. Schiaparelli communicates a message: beauty is hope; beauty is salvation. Through the creations brought to the stage, the Maison wants to invite people to a newfound strength and to give them that same euphoria that was the lifeblood of the creative process. “I hope the joy we felt, of creating things, of getting to make beautiful objects that people will always remember, is evident in every coat, dress, and accessory” said Daniel Roseberry, Creative Director of the Maison.
If on the one hand the atmosphere of the show is severe and rigorous, on the other the shining gold of the maxi-jewels, the bright and luminous fabrics, the pearls and crystals and the multicolored flowers of large dimensions appear, as in a revelation, in a triumph of that innovative and unconventional creativity that has always characterized Schiaparelli. And again the dove returns, a more timely symbol of peace and freedom than ever: on the hand of a model, a dove in molded leather, organza and white beads holds a golden olive branch.
The lock on the heart invites one to delve into the world of art of the Maison, rediscovering its founding values and its history from the origins. And here comes the reference to Elsa’s original archives in the tone-on-tone embroidery of black grapes, as well as the inspiration from the iconic Bureau-Drawer suit born in 1936 from the first collaboration between the italienne and the surrealist Salvador Dalí. The characteristic centrality of the accessory is not surprising. Born Again even goes beyond the boundary between dress and jewel: it is the jewels themselves that become the absolute protagonists, covering the whole body. And like the iconic accessories of the Maison that portray the anatomical shapes of the body in a dimension that is sometimes ironic, erotic, bordering on scandal, so the heart itself becomes a celebration of the body as a precious jewel.
Schiaparelli’s heart speaks of life. And so do the flowers, the dove and all the brilliant creations presented by the Maison. Born Again tells about life that wins over war, about beauty that triumphs in a bright future. And it does so, why not, with a pinch of frivolity, irony, and lightheartedness. After all, isn’t it the meaning of everything? In the words of Daniel Roseberry: “what’s wrong with wanting to make beautiful things?”.